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Raksanna, Kendalle, Fahtiem, Angelika outside of Garden of Gethsamane
This year, I decided to add another leg onto my twice-annual trip to Egypt. Fahtiem and Angelika developed a 6 day tour of Israel and I decided to come along. I have never been to Israel and wanted a chance to see the country and learn first-hand about the culture. It has certainly been an interesting experience – a deeply spiritual experience and one that I appreciate very much.
Fahtiem, Angelika and a beautiful woman by the name of Kendalle and I are the four who added this leg on. It is a small group, but we all get along very nicely and I have certainly enjoyed everyone’s company. Both Fahtiem and Angelika did a great job with the itinerary and our guide, Isaac, was really wonderful.
We started our journey on Monday morning at 4:00 am. For this night owl, that was certainly a stretch of the imagination, but for those of you who know “Raksi-time,” you would have been extremely proud of me for I was actually early!!!
We arrived in Tel Aviv shortly after 1:00 pm and met Isaac, our tour guide for the week. He is an Israeli-Jew and has a great sense of humor. We briefly stopped by the hotel to drop off our luggage, get some money from the ATM and call home to make sure our families knew that we arrived safe and sound. Then, we started our journey with a driving tour of the city.
Israel– The Country
Israel
Israel, officially called the State of Israel, is an extremely unique country. It is located in the Middle East, in the western part of the Asia on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. It borders Egypt and the Gaza Strip on the southwest, Lebanon on the north, Syrian on the northeast and Jordan and the West Bank on the east. It is a relatively small country – one that you can drive its entirety in about 10 hours. There are approximately 7.5 million people who live in the country and out of that populous, nearly 5.7 million are Jewish. Arab citizens, including Muslims, Christians, Samaritans and Druze, comprise the remaining citizens.
Israel is an extremely developed country, comparable to Western cities. The infrastructure is sound, driving rules mirror our own in America and in a great many respects, is a reflection of our own American cities. The country embraces culture and refined elements of life, such as with the Israeli Philharmonic Orchestra, the Israeli Museum which houses the Dead Sea Scrolls and dance with the Batsheva Dance Company.
To me, as an American who comes from a country founded on freedom of religion and religious tolerance, it has been quite eye opening to learn first-hand how important religion is to those who live in this part of the world. By saying that one is a Christian, Jew or Muslim is paramount to claiming a nationality – and that declaration can lead to insurmountable differences in some cases. This experience has been quite interesting to me and quite a learning one.
Israel faced with constant wars and the threat of violence, is – as one of the security guards at the Israel airport put it – a problematic country. There is an undercurrent of always being watchful and constantly on guard. I could feel the psychological strain and must say that I do not envy this mindset of life.
Tel Aviv – A Cosmopolitan City
Overlooking the Mediterranean Sea in Tel Aviv
Tel Aviv is a beautiful city that is quite cosmopolitan. The city itself, which was founded in 1909 and merged with Jaffa in 1950 as a single municipality, is on the coast of the gorgeous Mediterranean Sea. While it is the second largest city in Israel, it is also the richest city in this country – complete with upscale shopping, the Tel Aviv Stock Exchange, international corporations, beaches, bars, cafes, restaurants, and a major performing arts component.
Our hotel was about one block away from the Sea and you can feel a beautiful soft breeze off the water all day and night. The temperature this time of year is quite hot and humid, with temps in the low to high 90’s and high humidity. Approximately 4 million people live in Tel Aviv and its greater area.
Life here is quite interesting. As a dog lover myself, I am happy to see the number of people with dogs here – in fact, the way that owners take their dogs for a ride is to put them on the front part of a motorcycle and go out on the town! It is pretty cool! There are many shops in this area and
Can you see the dog taking his ride on the motorcycle? Look toward the front of the bike.
restaurants with outdoor seating can be found almost everywhere. The vegetation along the highways is quite reminiscent of California terrain, complete with orange trees and aloe vera cactus.
The city itself, as well as the entire country (for that matter) is very clean and you can immediately sense that there is a national pride in keeping it that way. The people are very beautiful from a physical standpoint and are extremely health-conscious and physically fit. The majority of men and women alike could easily grace the covers of GQ or Glamour magazine. It is a city that never sleeps and the night life is very active. Musicians, street artists, families and lovers enjoy the beaches and cooler temperatures – it’s an eclectic and enjoyable feeling.
Jerusalem– The Holy City
Tuesday was a very special day for me. Isaac led us on a full day tour of Jerusalem, an ancient city that is filled with life today. It is the Holy City for three of the world’s major religions: Muslim, Jewish and Catholic and it is certainly magical, for religious and humanitarian reasons.
Jerusalem is the capital of Israel and, including the population of East Jerusalem, is the largest city in the country. It is nestled in the hilltops of the Judean Mountains and is approximately 48 miles in physical size.
We started by stopping on Mount Scopus to overlook the city and learn from Isaac where the landmarks are and what we would be doing. Mount Scopus is located above the city of Jerusalem and for many years, was used as a strategic military point to overlook and attack Jerusalem. The view is simply gorgeous!
Mount Olive, looking from Mount Scopus
Our next stop was Mount of Olives. It is a beautiful hillside that has tremendous religious significance. It is the burial site for Jews and contains about 150,000 graves and tombs of famous Jews, such as Abraham Isaac Kook (the first Chief Rabbi of Israel). From a Christian standpoint, it is the place where Jesus stood and wept over Jerusalem. It is also the site of the Church of Ascension, the place where it is believed that Jesus ascended to Heaven after His resurrection. His right footprint is imprinted in a slab of stone that is located in the Church.
After the Mount of Olives, we headed to the Old City.
The oldest part of the City (which is where the religious landmarks are located) is called the City of David and was established in 4th Millennium. It is one of the oldest cities in the world. The old walled city has four quarters: the Armenian quarter, the Muslim quarter, the Christian quarter and the Jewish quarter.
Armenian Quarter – We did not have the opportunity to visit the Armenian quarter, due to time constraints, but here is a little bit about it. The Armenian quarter is the smallest quarter of the city and is home to approximately 2,500 Armenians. One of the main characteristics of this quarter is that the Armenians remained true to their religion and ethnicity by maintaining a solid commitment to their religious views (Armenian Christian) and intermarrying to keep their culture intact.
Muslim Quarter – We began the tour by entering Jerusalem in the Muslim quarter, through the Lion’s Gate. We stopped for coffee at a quaint little shop that served excellent Turkish coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice. Then, we began our journey. We arrived just after the midday call to Prayer and were not able to get near the Dome of the Rock, the very famous Mosque with the gold
Dome of the Rock, Muslim Quarter, Jerusalem
top. It is located at Temple Mount. This Mosque is the third most sacred of the religious landmarks for the Muslims (following Mecca and Medina) because it is the home of the Rock of Moriah. According to Islamic belief, it is the place where Muhammad ascended to Heaven, with Angel Gabriel.
The Dome of the Rock is also the site of the Foundation Stone. The Foundation Stone is of the holiest site in Judaism. Just as Muslims pray toward Mecca, Jews pray toward the Foundation Stone. It is believed to be the site where Abraham prepared to sacrifice his son, Isaac, to God. Traditionally, Jews believe that this site is the Holy of Holies, the holiest spot on Earth. Jews are not allowed by the Muslim authorities to pray at the Dome of the Rock and that is why it is believed that the Jews began to pray at the Western Wall, because it is the site nearest the Foundation Stone.
From a Christian standpoint, the Dome of the Rock is also considered a holy site. It is the location where the mother of Constantine (the first Christian Roman Emperor) built a church, as did St. John at a later point in time. On the walls in the Dome of the Rock is this inscription:
“Such was Jesus son of Mary and peace upon him on the day of birth and on the day of death and on the day he is raised up again. It is a word of truth in which they doubt. It is not for God to take a son. Glory be to him when he decrees a thing he only says be, and it is.” (Quran:19:33–35)[
We were not able to go into the Dome, but did see it from an alley way. It is quite beautiful.
We walked through the Muslim quarter and the alleys were extremely similar to those in Cairo’s Khan el Khali. The shops and restaurants lined the alleys; the calls of “come inside my shop; I have a great deal for you” and the smells of the spices were like a transfer back to Egypt. It was quite amazing for me to experience the similarities between Egypt and the Muslim Quarter, although I suppose that it should not have been a surprise as Egypt is a Muslim State.
Map of Via Dolorosa - Christ's path - courtesy of www.christusrex.org
The Via Dolorosa, the path that Jesus walked to be crucified, begins in the Muslim quarter and continues through the Christian Quarter. The Christian Quarter is located in the northwestern corner of the Old City and as can be expected, is filled with Christian Churches of many denominations. There are a few coffee shops and museums along the way, but the majority of buildings are basically wall-to-wall Churches. It is vastly different from both a look and feel from the Muslim quarter and there is a great, visible distinction in the cultures.
The Via Dolorosa has 14 stations, or landmarks, that designate important happenings through Christ’s walk. Although there were many places along the path that were significant to me, three places stood out in my mind. We visited the Garden of Gethsemane, a garden located at the foot of Mount of Olives where Jesus and the disciples prayed the night before his crucifixion and where He was found by Judas and arrested.
Today, the Church of Agony is located in the Garden and inside is the rock where it is said that Christ laid and sweated blood from His pores as He contemplated the impending events. We were fortunate enough to arrive at the Church of Agony in time to go inside – I joined others in touching the rock and had a very profound, spiritual experience from the bottom of my being.
Site of Jesus Crucifiction on Calvary
The second place that stood out in my mind was the place where the cross was nailed in the ground and Jesus was crucified. There is a place where you can kneel and feel the hole and touch the stones where the cross was placed. It was a very special place and the spiritual energy there was an out-of-body experience.
The final stop in the Christian quarter and in the path of Christ is, of course, the location of His tomb. It is said to be in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, which is in the heart of the quarter. The Church was full with Christian pilgrims who sang hymns and prayers as they traveled to the holiest sites in Christianity.
Once we left the Christian Quarter, we entered the Jewish Quarter. It lies in the southeastern quarter of the City and runs from Zion Gate, along the Armenian Quarter, up the Street of the Chain and extends to the Western Wall and Temple Mount in the East. As with the Muslim and Christian Quarters, the Jewish Quarter has a very distinct and different personality. It is actually quite quiet, although there is high energy and often times laughter coming from school tours and other visitors.
Western Wall - Women's Side
We entered the Jewish Quarter and immediately went through security to visit the Western Wall. The Western Wall is the only remaining part of the retaining wall around the Jerusalem. It is made from huge ashlar blocks and has vegetation growing from its walls. The wall is divided into two separate areas, one for males and one for females. It is the site of pilgrimage for Jews around the world and was constructed by King David the Great. Many people come to the wall to pray and to place notes in the cracks of the walls. It is reported that more than a million notes are placed at the wall in a year. The notes are collected twice a year and then buried on the Mount of the Olives. I went to the wall and said a prayer and had another meaningful, spiritual experience. The energy and the prayers of the people who came before me seemed to reach out and touch my soul.
We left this beautiful ancient city and I returned a different person, deeper as an individual and spiritually uplifted from the journey.
Completely Cool – The King in Jerusalem! (and yes, I mean Elvis!!)
Elvis Cafe - Jerusalem, Israel (NOT Vegas!)
On the way back to Tel Aviv, we stopped for coffee. Imagine my astonishment when we pulled up to this café/gas station that was called “Elvis Café!” For those of you who don’t know, I am actually a very big fan of Elvis. (However, for the record, I do not believe he is still alive.)
Yes! This entire restaurant/café was dedicated to the King himself with
Raksanna and the King (Elvis, that is!)
larger than life statues, favorite Elvis songs blaring from the gas station pumps and in the restaurant and tasty dishes that were Elvis’ favorites. I was so excited that I had to go to the payphone and call my mom and daddy to let them know about it! What a blast!
On our last night in Tel Aviv, Fahtiem, Angelika, Kendalle and I enjoyed a stroll and found a delicious restaurant where I enjoyed a
Hungry Kendalle! And yes, that is McDonald's in the background
Caesar salad, shrimp with garlic and butter and a gorgeous glass of wine. My dear friend and roommate, Kendalle, was starving for a steak! Hey Kendalle – Very Interesting! Very Interesting, Indeed!!!!
God Bless the USA!
Today is my last day in Cairo, then I begin the next leg of my journey. The past few days have been simply marvelous, spending time with friends and enjoying the magic of Egypt.
Today, the schedule is quite full. In about an hour, Mohamed (my driver while I am in Cairo) will pick Esmeralda and me up and we will visit Madame Raqia in her home, stop by Khan el Kahlili (the famous market dating back to the 1300′s), meet up with some friends and then stop back by Atlantis Oils to indulge in another session with Mr. Ibrahim. Did I tell you that the second time I visited him, Ibrahim surprised me with an essential oil perfume he named after me and created it to remind him of my fragrance? I was so delighted and honored – what a beautiful gift. I look very forward to seeing him today and enjoying a back and shoulder massage. I will miss him until my return to Egypt this December.
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